An Introduction to Koh Tao

Koh Tao, 6/13/11

I do not typically bathe in water as warm as that in the Gulf of Thailand. The water surrounding Koh Tao island is practically like a hot tub, with shallower puddles on the sand being almost too hot to stand.

Koh Tao certainly fits the description of paradise. Endless palm trees, white sand beaches, tall forest-covered mountains begging to be climbed, long boats calling out for a ride. In addition to its warmth, the water comes in every imaginable shade of blue and green and small transparent fish rush at my feet when I wade. Go further out and the sand feels and looks like black mud, sucking one deeper towards the ocean floor, taunting swimmers to ever leave the ocean. The quicksand-like ocean floor is indicative of Koh Tao's grip on travelers -- so many come to the island as backpackers and stay as ex-pats.

In English, Koh Tao means "Turtle Island", but even after the hundredth map view, I'm still not convinced. Koh Sea Slug would be more appropriate.

I'm here doing my SSI (Scuba Schools International) Open Water Certification course, the first and main scuba diving level. Unlike the states, where courses hover over $1,000 and occur in YMCA pools, in Thailand it's 9,000B ($270) and includes all accommodation and training dives in one of the world's premiere scuba destinations.

My course is at Big Blue Diving School, which is right on the water in Sairee Bay. I found out about it through Dane Lonsdale, whose friend Curtis came as a short-term dive instructor and never left. The hostel, despite a shared room, is a huge step up from Bangkok -- air condition, clean sheets changed daily, proper shower, and finally sockets to charge my dead electronics. Big Blue's campus is made up of dorms, private bungalows, dive classrooms, a dive shop, a restaurant, and packed bar. The neighboring town of Sairee is touristy, packed with American and European travelers, every bar playing pop music and every Thai restaurant also serving burgers, pasta, pizza, andwiches, and Mexican dishes. The center is a bit like Bourbon Street at night, but the proximity to the beach provides tranquility. Throughout town, people ride motorcycles, scooters, ATVs, sip fresh banana coconut shakes, and roast under the 95-degree sun.

Oddly my two Asian bunkmates decide to spend all day in bed reading despite being seconds from the beach and the weather being perfect. Their loss. I bid them adieu, put on my bathing suit, and follow a swim in crystal blue waters with a refreshing, yogurt-y blueberry lassi.