First Day, Continued

Bangkok, 6/10/11

Although I'm not hungry, I visit Cabbages & Condoms, a restaurant and safe sex museum, in Sukhumvit, with the mission of making safe sex and condoms as prevalent in Thailand as cabbages. Every meal ends with a condom instead of a mint, and the restaurant is quiet save for the plethora of mannequins dressed in intricate condom uniforms, like Ms. Chiquita Banana. If as a small child one never believed in Santa Claus, it's probably because he or she never viewed old Chris Kringle in all his contraceptive glory, giving out free condoms to all and telling Rudolph to have that thing checked out and be more careful next time. To all a good night, indeed.

Condom Santa and Chaquita Condom Banana

I continue my tour of Bangkok into the early evening, via foot, taxi, public bus, and sky train. Everywhere I turn, there is a new market, some just a few stands, other stretching for blocks. Stray cats and dogs run throughout, feasting on the scraps below.

Bangkok Traffic

On the long road back from Sukhumvit to Khao San, I stop at Golden Mount, a spire-topped temple set atop a tall foundation. Climbing to the top awards one a terrific view of the city and I'm practically the only one there. Walking up, I pass by large series of old iron bells, with golden writing on each, and Buddha statues everywhere, which those with faith have decorated with gold leaf.

It's late when I get back to Khao San, and I've been walking for nearly 12 hours. So some padthai is definitely in order. Practically every other street vendor in Khao San sells it, from small 3x3 carts. Customers get to choose everything they want in it -- from big glistening chrome bowls displaying each ingredient. And once it's been stir fried, it's not over, as there is a large array of self-service condiments including fish sauce, soy sauce, toasted peanuts, palm sugar, dried shrimp, and inexplicably, ketchup. I put everything on, sans the Western sauce travesties, which take the classic combination of rice noodles, bean sprouts, egg, fish sauce, lime juice, tamarind juice, chili pepper, cabbage, tofu, and chicken to new heights and shows why it's one of Thailand's national dishes. Once fully anointed, the dish is savory, soft yet crunchy with the peanuts and dried shrimp, and slightly sweet. Eaten streetside with a large Chiang, watching Thai women in colorful hand-knit canvas hats hawk trinkets, it's a great way to cap the day.

Local ethnic tribes selling crafts