Ahoy Hanoi, Day 2

Hanoi, Vietnam, 7/22/11

Breakfast is a large array on Bun Cha, a cold noodle dish assembled oneself. I love how Vietnam encourages immaturity as playing with my food has always been a pastime of mine. It definitely leads to a better dining experience. Five bowls are scattered in front of me, in the five-story, crowded restaurant whose omnipresent fluorescent lights are a bit harsh for 9am. There is a big plate of fresh herbs including basil, mint, cilantro plus many varieties of lettuces; a bowl of sweetened vinegar brine filled with pickled daikon; a bowl of chopped chilis; another filled with raw minced garlic; a bowl of rice noodles; and lastly, a large platter of barbequed pork loin and pork patties. Take a little of everything and you've got nearly all the food groups plus a toothsome, bright, spicy, and sour answer to the most important meal of the day. Around me, patrons celebrate this breakfast of kings by drinking beer with their Bun Cha despite the early hour.

The morning is spent exploring the Temple of Literature, Vietnam's first university. The grounds are decorated with five large courtyards plus multiple pagodas and bright red wooden temples with detailed gold carvings. Throughout the campus, there are large altars with statues of Confucius, dragons, and oddly, storks. Women in conical Vietnamese hats and long sheers tend to the meticulously manicured gardens.

I make a quick stop to pick up antibiotics at the pharmacy as I've run out. I simply tell them the medication I desire and am provided instantly with a double prescription, no questions asked, for $1. That should clear things up for the next few weeks. Said Ciprofloxacin is best taken as a chaser to questionable street foods, the varieties not properly cooked and/or washed in contaminated water.

Lunch is at KOTO, a non-profit restaurant completely staffed by underprivileged Vietnamese youth. The bi-level space is modern with comfortable seats and black leather banquettes. The sunny weather floods the restaurant with light. The restaurant's name is an acronym for "Know One, Teach One," and has a mission to get kids off the streets. The comprehensive vocational program can last a few months or even years and students graduate more mature, bi-lingual, with placed jobs in the hospitality industry. The young wait staff is beyond friendly, talking about their lives, hometown, Koto's education system, why they prefer front-of-house, and their favorite dishes. The fact that my meal supports these students only sweetens an already scrumptious meal.

I start with a sweet and sour fruit shake of pineapple, mango, and lime. After last night, I definitely need more Cha Ca. This time it's not a stew, but still retains the exciting cook-it-yourself qualities. Today's lunch will be make-your-own fresh (read: not fried) spring rolls:

1. Take a sheet of transparent rice paper
2. Add freshly grilled cha ca fish (yellow in color due to the turmeric with thick grill marks)
3. Add a pinch of fresh herbs including basil, mint, and coriander
4. Add julienned pineapple and cucumber
5. Top with chilis and peanuts
6. Using water as the binding agent, form into a tight roll
7. Dip into vinegar sauce
8. Consume
9. Smile

Getting kids off the streets never tastes so good.

***

I spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the Old Quarter of Hanoi. Highlights include the majestic Saint Joseph Cathedral that harkens back to when Vietnam was a French colony. Surrounding the cathedral are small bars where teenagers drink green tea mixed with water and snack on sunflower seeds.

Continuing on, I head to Hoan Kiem Lake, a beautiful oval-shaped body of water in the heart of Vietnam's capital. In the south of the lake, on a small grassy island, is Turtle Temple (Thap Rua), a three-story gray pagoda which is often the symbol of Hanoi and found on the city's flag. Hoan Kiem translates to "Lake of the Restored Sword" or "Lake of the Returned Sword." According to legend:

When Vietnam was occupied by forces of the Chinese Ming [Dynasty] in the 15th century, Le Loi, a resistance leader, netted a magnificent sword while fishing on the Lake. The power of the sword led Le Loi to victory and the expulsion of the Chinese. Later, as Emperor Le Thai To, he rowed out on the lake once more to return the sword from whence it came in gratitude for his success. A sudden clap of thunder rent the air, whereupon a golden ‘tortoise’ emerged from water to take the sword from his hand and return it to the depths. Like the Knights of the Round Table, legend has it that the turtles will be on hand to assist in times of national peril (source).

Supposedly giant golden sea turtle descendants still swim through the lake today, carefully guarding the powerful weapon. In the Temple of the Jade Mountain, found in the northern section of the lake across the beautiful crimson red Huc Bridge, lies one such amphibian. It's roughly 2.5 ft x 4ft, with razor sharp claws, and is entirely embalmed in gold. It's unproven whether it is an actual giant turtle rescued from the river or an elaborate sculpture. But either way, it's quite impressive and I'm all for keeping the legend alive.

Locals playing board games on the temple grounds

I grab dinner with two friends from Hanoi Backpackers at a local restaurant. We order a lavish family-style seven course feast including egg drop soup, spring rolls, pork patties, roasted duck with orange sauce, sauteed morning glory, and mixed seafood in a brown sauce with shiitaki mushrooms and peppers. The restaurant is modest with simple decor, mostly of large bottles of Vietnam infused whiskey. Next to me is a giant bottle the size of an office cooler, filled with whiskey and a whole monitor lizard. He's so close he may as well be my dinner date. The top of the monitor lizard whiskey has a taxidermied scaled creature, which looks like a miniature Komodo dragon. He stares down all the customers with black beady eyes, hissing at them to tip generously. Others bottles are filled with geckos, snakes, lizards, and seahorses. A sign proudly exclaims the reptile whiskey is "good for man sex." It's a bit of a tease however, since they won't give us a taste.

Dessert is at Pappa Roti, a small bakery with the hyperbolic claim that they are "the father of all buns." I'm not sure if they are claiming they invented the bun, if they are saying theirs are best, or both. The menu only has one item on it: Baked buns. No water, drinks, side dishes. Have celiac's disease? Get the hell out. Either way, if they are going to make such audacious claims about their buns, I guess it's smart that they are sticking to one item and perfecting it. Although I'm never one for hype, I must say the buns are heavenly. You can smell the fresh buns from blocks away, the sweet aroma alerting your nostrils and pulling your body closer. Right after I order, my fat bun is freshly pulled out of the steaming hot oven. The bun is encased in a crunchy maple/coffee sugar (after checking online it seems the bakers pipe a frosting on top prior to baking). The dough itself is cloud-like -- beyond light, buttery, slightly salty and yeasty, almost like a brioche. The bun is sweet, but not cloyingly so. It could really use a coffee which I wish they sold.

Pappa Roti's tagline is "One bite, different expressions" which is certain relevant as my friends and I each exhibit altered states of bliss as we quietly each our buns. It's as if we've stumbled upon some hidden treasure. Maybe Pappa Roti are in fact the best buns in the world and our current coordinates are the one rare location where they can be sampled. Like the Easter Island of baked confections. Well, then imagine my surprise when I found out that Pappa is a Malaysian chain found all throughout Asia, Dubai and Australia. Nevertheless, that is one damn good bun.



Note: Some images from Becky and Elaine