Angkor Babies

Siem Reap, Cambodia, 8/6/11

Cambodia's Angkor era lasted from 802 - 1432 AD, started when Hindu King Jayavarman II proclaimed himself the "god-king" and "universal monarch." Under Jayavaraman's rule, the Angkorian Empire conquered most of modern day Cambodia, engaged in relentless wars against Siam (modern-day Thailand), and built some of the most spectacular cities and religious complexes known to man. After a prosperous six centuries, the Angkor Empire eventually fell due to a combination of environmental devastation (droughts, failed irrigation, earthquakes, massive climate change), disease (Bubonic plague) and powerful attacks by the Siamese. Although the Thais made off with priceless relics and customs, many which are visible in Thai culture today, much of the stunning Angkorian Empire is still visible today.

Angkor was considered the largest preindustrial city on Earth, encompassing over 390 square miles. The center of the complex is Angkor Wat, the largest religious site on the planet and one of the original Wonders of the World (despite being a young 900 years old). Most of the temples reside a few miles outside Siem Reap city, situated along the Tonle Sap lake. There are over one thousand temples that make up the ancient Khmer Empire and the area has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Seeing all the major temples of Angkor takes at least three days, more typically a week, and we only have two days. As such, Amit and I are up early on day one to explore the "Grand Circuit", a tour of a half dozen of the smaller temples found in central Angkor. Our tuk-tuk driver from the night before was hostile and unfriendly and we are surprised that, when we ask our hotel concierge to hire a different driver, the same man shows up out front. Oh well, time is of the essence. It's a beautiful day as we leave Siem Reap city and head into the forest that leads to the temples.

Our first stop is Pre Rup, an ancient funeral site literally meaning "turn the body." Built in 961 AD, Pre Rup is composed of three brick, laterite, and sandstone triangular stupas. When the temple was operational at the turn of the millennium, ashes of the deceased were ritually rotated in different directions, giving the temple its name. As with most Khmer temples, Pre Rup is protected by imposing stone lions, with ornately tiled manes. Although Pre Rup is over a thousand years old, the carvings are incredibly intricate and well-preserved today -- statues of queens in jeweled crowns engraved into the sandstone temples walls.

Pre Rup entrance

East Mebon is next along the tour, a small gray temple complex also guarded by formidable roaring lion statues. King Rajendravarman completed the table in 953 AD, dedicated to his father. The temple is meant to honor the four-armed Hindu destroyer god Shiva, who typically carries a trident, bongo drum and wears a crescent moon on his head and pythons as necklaces. In addition to the lions, East Mebon, an array of six foot-tall sandstone elephants also protect the temple

Shiva (from Google)

East Mebon entrance

Farther north, across the Siem Reap River is Ta Som, a small narrow temple built by King Jayavarman II at the end of the 12th Century and dedicated to his father. At either end of the temple are two large gopuras, or entrance ways, decorated with four faces each respectively pointing north, south, east, and west. After 900 years, the brick gopuras are heavily oxidized and covered in moss, giving the entrance ways a gray and white dappled aesthetic. The eastern entrance has been overtaken by a large strangler fig tree, which appears to be growing directly out of the temple entrance. The strangler tree resembles a large cluster of disorganized weeds made out of tree branches. The tree limbs completely obscure the majestic faces found on the eastern gate and almost look as if they are trying to topple the entrance to the ground. True to its name, it seems to be strangling the poor ancient temple. In the long pathway between the two entrances are several ancient libraries, pavilions, and sanctuaries. As we pass through, admiring the carvings and ancient craftsmanship, we are approached by dozens of grade school-aged Cambodian children selling postcards, art prints, fans, and t-shirts. Others forgo salesmanship and instead opt for different routines designed to impress tourists into relinquishing cash. Around the Angkor circuit, these tricks typically include reciting the entire alphabet in a dozen different languages, singing Western pop songs, dictating every American state in alphabetical order, or trying to stump visitors in a game of "name that country's capital." The combination of these kids' intelligence, memory retention, and extroversion would make them ideal mates if only they were twenty years older, female, single, and lived in New York.

Ta Som

"Ask me a capital! Any capital!"

Neak Pean is a Buddhist temple on a small circular island located in the center of a man-made lake, built by King Jayarvarman II. The name literally means "The Entwined Serpents" as the central sanctuary is surrounded by multi-headed serpents. The temple originally acted as a hospital, its waters believed to have healing powers (although, as the water today is covered in moss and algae, I'm not too sure what kind of healing powers still exist. Maybe if one believes in the curing power of leeches). The central lake is surrounded by four small pools representing earth, wind, water, and fire. Four chapels mark the entrances to each pool: human chapel, lion chapel, elephant chapel, or horse chapel, although most of the statues have become ruins over time. On the small central island, the main stupa shares real estate with a statue of Balaha, the sacred Buddhist horse known for saving drowning sailors. Too bad I'm not going for a swim as I like riding horses. I'm all for anthropomorphic horses and equi lifeguards but as I have yet to meet Balaha I would have to say my favorite is still Mr. Ed. Sorry, Balaha.

Neak Pean

Central sanctuary with Balaha to the right

I say a little prayer for you

Moving along, we arrive at Preah Khan, meaning "Sacred Sword," a large flat temple built by King Jayarvarman VII in 1191 in dedication to his father. The temple makes up 138 acres surrounded by a moat. When it was operational, over 100,000 workers and servants resided on the grounds. Preah Khan served a dual role as a city and a Buddhist university, employing 1,000 teachers and 1,000 dancers.The complex is modeled after a modern compass, the center of which is a small ceiling-less room that reflects the sun onto a domed stupa shrine, symbolizing Buddhism in all its glory. The temple grounds have long hallways decorated with intricate carvings depicting ancient kings, monks, Buddhist gods, and naga serpents. There are shrines to over 430 deities, each of which received food, mosquito nets, perfume and clothing. The temple has a long causeway, with giant stone statues holding a massive naga serpent; on one side Buddhist golds hold the five-headed snake-like creature, on the other, the reptile is held by evil Hindu asura deities. Walking along the bridge is like being embroiled in a mythological battle of good and evil. We pass by the Hall of Dancers, a small building with carvings of rows of female dancers who entertained the gods.

Carving depicting the Battle of Lanka

Hall of Dancers

Garuda (Mythical man-bird creature) holding a Naga

We're heading to Phnom Bakheng to watch the sun set and drive straight through Angkor Thom, one of the biggest individual temples among the city on Angkor. As we exit the South Gate, one of Banyon's four-sided stone faces smiles back at us, looking forward to our formal return tomorrow. Angkor Thom's South Gate is protected by hordes of grey monkeys. The primates have the decency not to enter the sacred Khmer ruins, but that tact certainly does not stop them from climbing on top of cars and small children, stealing food, and defecating on street vendors.

Phnom Bakheng is one of the highest buildings in central Angkor and is a popular tourist destination for watching the sun set; so much so, that security guards close the entrance after enough hundreds have already poured in. We walk up a a forest path to reach the summit while those with bad legs, or large wallets, ride elephants draped in silk. Phnom Bakheng is known as the "Temple Mountain" and was constructed at the end of the 9th century by King Yasovarman. The site, which was dedicated to Shiva, was the prime religious temple within Angkor prior to Angkor Wat's construction. When we reach the temple, the sky is heavily overcast and the sun set is a bit of a let down. That said, the top offers terrific views of Angkor Wat in the distance and Amit and I run into Chris and Jen, the two Scots from the Treehouse Seven. Phnom Bakheng is almost completely surrounded by dense forest, with pockets of gray brick and sandstone temples peaking out, as if they're hiding in the jungle. Thus, it's really no surprise that many of the temples of Angkor spent centuries hidden under dense jungle overgrowth, only to be discovered by explorers and scientists in the past 300 years.

Phnom Bakheng